So who knew how many different ways there are to cook porridge. The box clearly states “Product of Canada” and I thought that meant we cook it my way! Not so, there is a Scottish way, a Swedish way and a Canadian way. The Scottish way is loose, runny and thin, not too much porridge used, very economical. The Swedish way is a little less runny, a little thicker, no brown sugar on top – not sure what that says about the Swedes. And then there is my way – the best – so thick you can stand a spoon in it, very firm (no comments, please), not very frugal, and topped with a ton of brown sugar. Amazing, the things you learn when living in the West Bank with total strangers. Jk, I’m sure you have your hybrid German/Canadian way.
The past two days were filled with personal stories of incredible resistance, resilience and perseverance in the face of adversity. We have a lot to learn from the people we meet!
On Sunday, while visiting the village of Al Walaja, we were graciously shown around by Machmud and Issam, two young men in the late twenties. When asked what they would like to see in the future for their village, one replied, “Leave us alone!”, referring to the occupation and the building of settlements which encroach on their village. It was the third time this week that we visited a village under threat: Al Walaja, An Nu’man and Husan.
In Al Walaja, Machmud works at the Ansar Centre, a community centre providing support for children, teenagers and women of the village. There they can gather, participate in programs and generally find solace in sharing their discomfort with each other as settlement construction approaches barley meters from the door of the Ansar centre.
The village tour they took us on passed the demolished ruins of Issam’s house, a home which was demolished by the Israeli army, rebuilt by the family, only to be demolished again. They do not have the money to build a third time. A road, which only Israelis can drive on, separates Machmud and his family from a lonely little house on the side of a steep, picturesque hill. This house belongs to his grandmother. Atop the hill sits Har Gilo a very large, not-so-picturesque settlement built within the extended borders of the city of Jerusalem. The house had to be abandoned by his family several years ago and they now live with other family members closer to the centre of the village.
Next stop on our tour, was to visit a farmer, Abedelfatah Abedrabah (that’s what he said), who lives in a small but cosy cave complete with a bed, a few chairs, a dug out kitchen cupboard area and a wood stove (crafted somehow out of an old unused water cistern). Photographs grace the walls of his cave. Abed proudly showed us a guest book, his third, with comments from internationals from all over the world who have visited him and he asked us to sign it. A privilege!
While walking down the hill to Abed’s with our young companions, they told us that they really should not be in the area or the Israeli soldiers would harass them and possibly arrest them. But they felt comfortable that, while in the presence of anyone from the international community, this would not happen. They only wish to be left alone to live in peace and with dignity. It was a real feel-good visit. Can you picture me protecting anyone from the Israeli army?
Today, we visited another village, Jubbet adh Dhib, which does not appear to be under threat from settlers or demolition, however, they have other significant problems. It is a village of 167 residents, 75 of which are children. A settlement sheep farm sits about 250 metres from their houses but the Israelis will not allow power to be brought into the village, nor will they allow a road in to be built. We had to climb a hill of rock and mud for about 20 minutes to get into the village. They have a generator which they use occasionally. The UN and other NGOs helped them raise funds for a solar power system but no sooner was it installed, the Israelis ordered them to dismantle it.
Hamza, the self-appointed leader of the village, is a pleasant man who spoke very seriously for the first hour of our visit but became lighter as the visit wore on and his comfort level with the new Team 34 grew. The children came into the house where we met with Hamza and his brother, Ammar, to recite the alphabet for us, first in English and then in Arabic. Then their teacher had us repeat the alphabet in Arabic. Then they insisted they would dress me up in genuine Arabic dress for a photo op. In spite of living without even the convenience of electricity or a road to the village, these folks were happy, cheerful people.
We had a briefing with the local ICRC representative today; however, she is as new in her job as we are in ours. I think the briefing was reversed with us briefing her. It is a reciprocal arrangement with each sharing any new developments with the other. She has the power to intervene with the IDF if necessary to see if improvements can be made in the checkpoint.
Tomorrow, we have a couple of meetings planned with Vice-chancellor at Bethlehem University and the Arab Education Institute. We also have one of our Hebron colleagues arriving for a placement visit with us for two nights.
The weather has been a bit miserable of late, rather like November, cold and damp, hovering between 3 – 7 C in the morning but with the dampness, it feels much colder. After 3 and a half hours in the checkpoint, I can’t wait for my internationally-made porridge and Nescafe, and I don’t care who makes it!
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